Home » Drum Restoration » Drum Kit Restoration, pt. 5: Machining impossible to find parts.

Drum Kit Restoration, pt. 5: Machining impossible to find parts.

So, you need a drum part and you know it’s just a goddamn stainless steel dowel with a point machined onto it, or a brass bolt, or some other stock machine part that you could fabricate with a grinding wheel and ten minutes?

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Floor tom legs, kick drum spikes, that sort of thing- this is the place. I ordered steel dowels to make spikes for a Slingerland kick drum from McMaster and get them delivered to me 20 hours later. 20 hours!!

Got a late-’60s/early-’70s Slingerland kit with the floor tom and/or kick drum brackets that strip out? You need Heli-Coil style threaded inserts in size 5/16-24.

And you can buy them here.

Also, to expand on the earlier “Making your vintage drums better” theme:

There’s a company that makes adapter plates for Trick Snare throw-offs and butt plates for the Ludwig snares. The classic P-85 Ludwig snare selector is kind of crap for stability, but the Trick is rock solid. If you don’t care about how it looks and you’re doing a lot of recording where you want the snares to stay uniformly tensioned for an entire afternoon of tracking, I’d suggest getting a beater Supra and getting it fitted with one of these rigs:

Supra Trick Adaptor Kit

Eventually, I’m going to turn one of my modern Supras and one of my Acrolites into modern recording machines by putting one of these kits on each of them, some Pure-Sounds and a set of Keane-Loks.

Speaking of which, as we’ve mentioned before, we’re big fans of John Keane’s snare tuning stabilizers, the Keane-Lok. He made these things and then tried to get a patent and was denied for totally arbitrary reasons. He ended up with a massive box of these things I don’t think he has any plans to ever put them into production. We sell them in our store.

-Patrick

You can make these.

You can make these.

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